Every year when the hiking season starts our thoughts drift towards the Alpstein in the Swiss half canton of Appenzell Innerhoden. Why? Because this little paradise of mountains, valleys and green alpine pastures are just a dream to hike around.
A great easy hike runs from the Ebenalp via the Wildkirchli path to the Berggasthause Äscher.
This is the perfect hike if you are new to the area and want to get a taste. But be warned, once you’ve hiked within the Alpstein you will return year after year.
How to get to the Äscher & Ebenalp
You will need to make your way to Wasserauen in the Canton of Appenzell.
By train, if you arrive from Zürich area, you will usually change trains in Goassau, St.Gallen and maybe even one more time. Just keep in mind that your end station will be Wasserauen.
It is then only a short 4 minutes walk to the Ebenalp cable car.
By car, Wasserauen is in the Schwendi district in Appenzell Innerhorden and there is no motorway close by which makes this such a nice region. And as many ways lead to Wasserauen over hills and passing many pretty villages it is best to use your Google maps and plan your trip accordingly.
At Wasserauen you will find payable parking by the Ebenalp cable car and along the road. Be early as this is a popular day trip for both Swiss locals and tourists.
Travel tip: To ensure you will be hiking the Ebenalp, Wildkirchli and the Äscher nearly by yourself, book an overnight stay at the Ebenalp! This will give you plenty of possibilities to enjoy this beautiful Swiss beauty spot once the day tourists have left and before they arrive again the next day.
Hiking up to the Ebenalp
When you arrive at Wasserauen and the cable car doesn’t appeal to you, then of course, you can hike up the 820m altitude gain spread over 4.7km to the Äscher and Ebenalp.
It is a steep path, first within the forest where steep steps and narrow switchbacks will bring you higher and higher up the mountain. When you exit the forest the trail will lead you over a nice alpine pasture before climbing again up to The Äscher then the Wildkirchli and eventually to the Ebenalp Berggasthause.
When the cable car is closed
If for any reason the cable car is not running, or you have members in your family that would love to hike up to the Ebenalp, but not via the long steep path from Wasserauen, then there is an alternative.
You would need to find someone to drive you to the starting point, (see red arrow on map) or you leave your vehicle here and also return on foot. Normally when you visit the Ebenalp & Äscher you would descend with the cable car or hike down to the beautiful Seealpsee and on to Wasserauen.
We got lucky and a local drove us to the starting point of the less steep and shorter path up to the Ebenalp. We would have preferred the cable car but because of strong winds, it was closed.
You can see on the hiking map below the red arrow, it is here where the other path starts.
Directions: Leave on the same route you arrived to Wasserauen – the Schwendetalstrasse – towards the village Schwende and then onwards to Weissbad. On your left, you will pass the restaurant “Loosmuhle” take the NEXT road to your left and enter “Triebernstrasse”. You are now driving on a farm road. After a few hundred metres take the 2nd road to your left which is the “Estböhlstrasse”. Drive all the way up passing some farmhouses, traversing small woodlands until on your RIGHT next to the road is a parking area. You can leave your car there.
Look uphill to your left you, need to walk to this house and stable (see photo below) and start the hike from there. The path will now go across the grassland and up through the forest to the Ebenalp.
With Google maps, you should find the road easily.
In the photograph below you can also see where the cars are parked. Definitely local knowledge needed to start hiking from there.
Hiking Map Äscher to Ebenalp via the Wildkirchli Path
This hiking map is if you wish to hike up from Wasserauen.
Click on the map to get full access to the Alpstein area. The red arrow indicates the starting point should the cable car be closed and you want to hike up the easier route.
Hiking facts from Wasserauen.
Distance: 4.7 km
Ascent: 821 meters
Highest point: 1629 metres above sea level
If you take the cable car, you will hike from the Ebenalp down to the Äscher Berggasthause via the Wildkirchli path. 800 metres distance with a descent of 156 metres. You can then walk back up and take the cable car down, or as mentioned previously hike down to the Seealpsee.
Once at the Ebenalp the path is well signposted and you do not need a map. The path goes from the cable car around the mountain and down to the Wildkirchli caves then the Wildkirchli itself until you reach the Äscher.
Good to know before you visit the Äscher & Ebenalp
This place can get quite windy, and we have been standing in Wasserauen at the bottom of the Ebenalp cable car at 10 am wanting to head high up but the wind had other plans. In situations like these, the cable car “normally” stays closed the whole day.
Check the wind prediction website it can easily get up to over 150km/h!
Also, it is a place where it rains frequently and the rocky hiking trails can become slippery. Be careful if you are on your adventure in the Alpstein.
What to expect when visiting The Äscher & Ebenalp via the Wildkirchli
This is such an amazing place where nature and beauty are in total harmony, no matter where you hike or visit within the Alpstein. This place is just insanely beautiful and very small which makes it easy to explore to the max.
The views, the panoramas and also the people you will meet in the Alpstein are second to none.
Friendliness is key and the Appenzellers definitely live by this.
Hiking from the Ebenalp to the Äscher
Ok, it is not really a hike more a stroll along a rocky narrow path, through a dark tunnel bypassing a chapel, crossing a wood plank bridge before arriving at the most astonishing mountain restaurant you may have ever seen – The Äscher Berggasthause. In total just 800m to walk.
Built into the rock face with very little space the place defies belief!
If you are looking for unique accommodation in Switzerland, then you must add the Äscher Berggasthause to your list.
About the Ebenalp
Located on the northernmost summit of the Appenzell Alps at an altitude of 1640m. The restaurant serves delicious meals and offers accommodation in private rooms or dormitories for hikers visiting the Alpstein.
It is normally a sunny place to be within the Alpstein when the sea of fog engulfs the lower villages.
During the winter and if snow conditions permit, skiers can enjoy this place as well.
About the Wildkirchli
Wildkirchli (wild church) comprises three interlinked caves made famous in 1904 when prehistoric artefacts were discovered. These findings proved for the first time that Neanderthals also inhabited the Alpine region. And on top of that, traces of giant cave bears were found.
About the Äscher Berggasthaus
One of the oldest inns in Switzerland, its beginnings go back to 1800, when hermits and herdsmen began to cater to visitors coming up to the Aescher meadow. Today the inn is known far and wide for its unique atmosphere, hospitality and iconic charm. Nestled against the cliff face, at one with the mountain and its imposing natural surroundings, the inn is the centerpiece of an image that is sent all around the world.
All three together – The Ebenalp – the Wildkirchli & The Äscher are the centerpieces and the start of the Appenzell tourism legacy. And today is seen worldwide on social media, posters and other advertising material for Switzerland. Of course, there are many more beautiful places in Appenzell to be visited, but everyone has at least seen a photograph or heard of the Äscher.
Hiking the full circle Ebenalp – Äscher – Seealpsee – Wasserauen
If the short 800m stroll is not enough you will be in for a treat. You can easily extend your hike all the way down to the famous Seealpsee and on to Wasserauen where your car or train will be waiting for you.
The full circle is about 8km long and includes an ascent of 220 meters altitude and a descent of around 950 meters altitude. Keep in mind it is a long steep downhill. Also, the part from Seealpsee to Wasserauen is super steep downhill along a road.
What makes the full circle interesting is the fact that you will be passing several alpages where you can buy alpine cheese and butter (in season).
Some say it is too steep from the Ebenalp to the Seealpsee for children, but others say it is fine. Just go slowly on one section where maybe smaller kids need to be taken by the hand.
You have to make this decision.
At the Seealpsee
This place will be welcoming you with open arms. Make sure you do have some time around the lake, maybe visit some alpine huts, have some fresh milkshakes and eat some cheese all whilst relaxing your feet in the cold Seealpsee.
You can even rent rowing boats from either of the two restaurants at the lake. Which by the way also offer a great option to spend the night.
You can also get to the Seealpsee by an easier hike direct from Wasserauen.
But you must know it is still a steep path up and back down. Read Everything you need to know to get to Seealpsee
Accommodation near the Alpstein in Appenzell IR
For some of you reaching the Alpstein might be quite a drive and to stay close by would certainly help you get the most out of your visit to the Äscher & Ebenalp.
Here are some nearby accommodation options within the Wasserau -Schwendi region which is close to the Ebenalp cable car
- Hotel Frohe Aussicht
Only 200m from the Ebenalp Cable Car and a 10 min drive to the pretty Swiss village of Appenzell. - Hotel Alpenblick
Beautiful views of the Alpstein massive and only a 2 min walk from the train station to reach the Ebenalp
Accommodation within the Alpstein
As mentioned before the best place to overnight is for sure at the Äscher Berggasthause or the Ebenalp. Not only will you be right there and can enjoy the setting without the day-tourists, you can also experience the sunset and sunrise over the Alpstein which is always an adventure in itself.
Another option would be to choose to stay the night at the Seealpsee if you are hiking the full circle. It would then only be an hours hike down to your car or train the next morning.
More Swiss Travel Guides
- 3 days Hiking in the Alpstein – The Royal Tour
- Visit Mount Pilatus on the Golden Round Trip from Lucerne
- Lucerne – Self-Guided City Tour (ideal for families)
- Lucerne in Winter – 3 Day getaway Itinerary city to peak
- LILU – Light festival in Lucerne ( January only)
- Glamping in Willisau -Lucerne ( and bike ride)
- Visit the Hammetschwand Lift from Lucerne
If I have missed anything on this post, or if you have some more questions when planning to visit The Äscher Berggasthause and Ebenalp, then leave a comment below. It is always nice for others to see some real people’s conversations.
PIN it for future reference and tell a friend about it.
Thank you, Never forget to explore!
2 thoughts on “Visit The Äscher – Ebenalp via Wildkirchli”
Hello. Im 60 y.o and my first time in Switzerland. I want to see the Seealpsea and the ways with cows, but I wouldn´t like to go alone. Mostly that you say that the way is very steep from the lake to the town. Tours are from Zurich or Lucern, but I will be in Appenzell or Buchs. Do you know if , anyways, people go everyday as to follow somebody or walk side by side? Date: 1st week of May. Thank you !!!
Hallo Margarita
If you like to visit the Seealpsee, start at Wasserauen and hike the trail. Yes it is steep but not long and it is steep along a farmers road. You should be perfectly ok to visit without a guide.
If you like to do the Ebenalp and Aescher as well, you take the cable car from Wasserauen, visit them first or last, and then hike to Seealpsee. Although I would not suggest to Hike to Seealpsee alone from the Aescher.
Hope this helped.
Take care Corina